And not 100% safe. As we sat and sipped our mago lassis this afternoon I heard part of a conversation drift over on the breeze. “Passed a bridge…bus had gone off…15 metre drop…. many dead…”. I have to say, Storm and I weren’t altogether suprised. It must be something in the water over here, but every bus driver we meet seems to be on a vendetta against life and stillness. G forces have stepped up a notch to H forces and high speeds seem to be the norm on curvy mountain passes. One bus that passed us yesterday nearly lost control on a straight stretch of road when it swerved vehemently to avoid a spluttering rickshaw.

So we’ve decided ignorance is the key and we’ve stepped in line and taken our ticket in the large deli counter called life. I guess when the number’s up…it’s roast chickens for you.

Anyways, today the bus driving was better than the day before – although road conditions continued to deteriorate as the journey continued. After 4 1/2 hours on the road I can honestly say that I can empathise with one of my old t-shirts during the ‘agitator’ wash cycle. I could feel the dirt shuddering its way out of my clothes. My shirt that was dirty yesterday – clean… A bit of spit and a 4 1/2 hr bus ride removes even the most unsightly stain. At least it feels that way.

The persistent knocks of the trip, however, were easily compensated for by the magnificent panoramas as we passed along the spine of the Western Ghats. Huge, lush valleys with tea plantations continued to extend into the hazy distance for the majority of our trip and dense shades of green were everywhere. We’ve finally bumped our way into Kumily – ready for elephants, tigers (probably not) and monkeys. Not to mention the 3 or 5 hr massage Storm and I are contemplating for the morrow (for the princley sum of $18 for 3 hrs).

This part of our trip has been most enjoyable and as we strolled along last night in relative silence, surrounded by glow bugs and ubiquitous tea, we felt thoroughly justified in our decision to head south (despite hearing murmerings of the wonderful times our friends have had in the northwest of the country). And now that we know that spices are allowed through quarantine, expect plenty of home-made Indian food from Strommage and myself in coming months…maybe.

Hope everyone is uber-well and not long now till it’s all over. Although, at the moment I’m averaging about 3 posts an hour so I’m sure you haven’t heard the last of us…

Peace, Love and Katzenjammer…

James and Storm